Version française ici.
BLACK MONTH HISTORY
Black Dandyism
Dedicating my writing to the different facets of fashion without focusing on black aesthetics during Black History Month would be nothing short of sacrilegious. So today, we’re going to explore a powerful theme: BLACK DANDYISM.
Who are the dandies?
Originally, dandies are white British men from the upper classes who decided it was time for men’s fashion to become more coquette.
Gone are the strict categorizations; here, masculinity is a bit deconstructed (in the context of the era, don’t be too harsh!) and meets femininity through accessories and materials normally used by women (again, according to the norms of the time!).
And among famous white dandies are men who are still known to the general public today, such as the writer Oscar Wilde or the poet George Gordon Noël Byron (Lord Byron).
Originally, dandies are white British men from the upper classes who decided it was time for men’s fashion to become more coquette.
Gone are the strict categorizations; here, masculinity is a bit deconstructed (in the context of the era, don’t be too harsh!) and meets femininity through accessories and materials normally used by women (again, according to the norms of the time!).
And among famous white dandies are men who are still known to the general public today, such as the writer Oscar Wilde or the poet George Gordon Noël Byron (Lord Byron).
But you read that right: white men. So what about black people now?
But you read that right: white men. So what about black people now?
BLACK dandyIsm
As an aesthetic developed alongside the original white English version, black dandyism has its origins in a much, much, much less glamorous period of history. One that caused much suffering and death, and which on the basis of racial and racist exploitation: slavery and slave trade. A dark chapter in history that it is IMPORTANT to remember.
At that time, “owners” sometimes dressed slavery victims in a style similar to their own in order to make them presentable for sale. Then, in the 19th century, things began to change. On April 27, 1848, a decree abolishing slavery in the French colonies was enacted, followed on June 19, 1865 by the United States. From that moment on, former black slaves and their descendants began to reclaim the dandy aesthetic, turning it into a cultural identity in its own right, synonymous of renewal and traumatic rupture.
And what about fashion? Charisma, elegance, and arrogance are all present, thanks to a refined, even precious look. And the 21st century, it can look like this:
It features the popular three-piece suit (very chic), tailored trousers, and high-quality shirts (?), complemented by derbies, loafers, or Oxford shoes that reinforce the luxurious and traditional “masculinity” of the outfit.
And then, a major innovation at the time, accessories inspired by feminine aesthetics were added: scarves, Borsalino hats (luxury soft felt hats adorned with a ribbon), more classic hats, and canes that were half authority symbols, half cunts.
This is a style we love to love and sometimes love to hate, but which, in any case, has remained deeply rooted in pop culture:
• Dr. Facilier, the villain in The Princess and The Frog with his dandy aesthetic.
• Congolese culture and its “sapeurs” looks.
• Or even the theme of the 2025 Met Gala : Superfine : Tailoring Black Style.
TOP 5 of the best LOOKS (met gala version)
And since black dandyism was at the heart of the latest edition of the Met Gala, here are my top five looks that, in my humble opinion, best represented the aesthetic:
#5 ALTON MASON
Wearing BOSS.
#4 LAURYN HILL
Wearing JUDE DONTOH.
#4 LAURYN HILL
Wearing JUDE DONTOH.
#3 JANELLE MONÆ
Wearing THOM BROWNE.
#3 JANELLE MONÆ
Wearing THOM BROWNE.
#2 KHABI LAME
Wearing BOSS.
#2 KHABI LAME
Wearing BOSS.
#1 TEYANA TAYLOR
Wearing RUTH E. CARTER.
oTHER articles
TO DISCOVER
Leave a Reply