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Paris FASHION WEEK

JACQUEMUS FW 26: “LE PALMIER” (ANTI)CONFORMIST ?

If there’s one thing Simon Porte Jacquemus has mastered to perfection, it’s aesthetics, nostalgia, and marketing. As the eponymous brand’s fashion show took place on Sunday, January 25, in the heart of Paris, one question arises: did Jacquemus succeed in delivering?

On today’s menu: “LE PALMIER”

By naming his collection Le Palmier, Jacquemus offers a journey into the nostalgic twists and turns of French history, blending the elegance of the 1950s with the quirky hairstyles of the 1980s. Inspired by the many women who have shaped his life—including his young daughter—what better way to mark the occasion than to play with the silhouettes he knows so well?

Large hats reminiscent of those worn by Catherine Deneuve and Françoise Dorléac in Les Demoiselles de Rochefort; a classic film set in the south of France so dear to Jacquemus; Audrey Hepburn-style fitted waists, and even an enormous red empress coat (my favorite look, I must say)—the vast majority of the looks are visually on point.

LESS CRAZINESS, MORE CONFORMITY?

Beyond the rather pleasing aesthetics, there is a sense that the brand’s image is changing in its new collections.

From the accessible and popular aesthetic of “La Bomba” in 2017 to the edgy, winter it-girl look of “La Montagne” in 2021, not to mention the confident femme fatale embodied by Gigi Hadid’s famous hair flip for “L’année 97” in 2020, the watchword has always been anti-conformism. Originality. And a refusal to bow to the aesthetics of the Grandes Maisons.

And yet, “Le Palmier,” although elegant and visually appealing, marks a turning point, a break with the craziness of previous collections. Is this a move toward conformity in order to establish legitimacy in the industry, or simply a sign of evolving creative maturity?

TOP 5 of the best LOOKS

With the multitude of looks on offer this Sunday, January 25, it would be criminal not to offer a top 5 from the “LE PALMIER” collection! You’ve been waiting for it, here it is: